Clutch systems BASIC STUFF from classes.
Purpose : engage or disengage the power from engine to transmission as and when necessary
Most application: CLamping a friction disc in between two rotating metal dics
Name: Single dics/plate dry clutch
Friction disc is held against a heavy spring load.
Mainly 2 types:
Clutch plates: Diameter=torque capacity but increased pressure spring.
Pressure plate assembly
Sheet metal cover: smth that supports everything
Diapham spring(applies pressure)
Pressure plate
Spigot bearing supports the input shaft 4 the gearbox in the  flywheel-can be a bronze bush or bearings(bull bearings or needle  rollers)
There must be a freeplay between release bearing and the diaphragm spring
WHy Diaphragm spring is chosen to be in the clutch?
Low maintenace
Low weight, low engine powerloss
less effort to operate
Cost effective
Smoother operation
Can be used in a large range of vehicle.
Why I did What I did in practical?
We were given a mounted transmission + engine block and the clutch is just in between the flywheel and the input shaft of the transmission, so we unbolt them. Again, match marking is very important because on the clutch assembly there are spots that hold more load than other parts, hence their bolts slots are different not on a rounded symmetrical pattern.
I quickly notice the relation between theory notes and real clutch system, this one is nt a hydraulic adjustable control type where there is a slave chamber for fluid distribution, and when readjusting you depress the clutch you feel 1st level resistance n 2 nd resistance etc etc.... BUT NO, this is a spring/ mechanical type where your adjust the spring to set the freeplay on the clutch.
Why there must be a little freeplay? Opposite to most moving part, this thing feel relatively opposite. If on gears, freeplay is for heat expanding ability of teeth when operating preventing friction n binding then freeplay preset in clutch pedal is to set pre-load on the release bearing( note that this is a ball bearing pressed righ onto the center of the diaphragm spring to create pivot points hence disengage the clutch friction disc from the flywheel). If there is no freeplay that u can feel when u press the clutch, the friction disc might as well be set originally away or "just in contact" with the flywheel, hence there is not enough stop-friction between the clutch n the engine then the engine is not engaged with the transmission as when needed. The further result can be a burning friction disc that destroy it due to sliding friction between friction disc and flywheel.
 So as we disconnect the spring, clutch controller wire first we need to set the freeplay after examining inside the clutch.
Apart on all the spring n screw and pivots, the most notable part is the friction disc, the front line of the clutch, it does the very painful job of SNAP!!! from zero movement to immediate engagement with the engine, and the engine doesn't do any mercy on the clutch, once it is clamped it takes whatever speed the engine is at. So at minimum idle about 900-1000, or even 5000-6000 rpm when u boys want to do a little sudden torque to burnout, the friction disc takes them all. I wonder with that much torsion, how it is going to last. Very well, it has 4 set of torsional spring to absorb all the torsion, effectively at every degree/angle/slice of the disc. 
Nothing much to say about the clutch really its a standard dry plate diaphragm clutch we just check its condition and everything, make sure we find heat marks for damage for poor engagement n stuffs.
Overall, clutches have so many function but its main principal is to engage, disengage rotation parts. They are also effectively used to construct the LSD, mainly for create friction and transfer torque from wheel to wheel. Also in 4WD clutch disc are used in the viscous coupling, also doing the same job but with viscous fluid. In automatic transmission, there is no clutch in control but in construction, clutch packs and fluid are always used for unseen engagements.
The most exciting thing about clutches is: it is a must have for any drift car. With the clutch, it is so easy to bring the car's rev back to top in no time so your drift is still maintain, the RW are still burning, help the drifter no need to rely on too much engine power or handbrake. Hand brake is not really mobile to employ and require good practice, a second or more with the "angle generator" (E-brake) would probably spin out ruining the drift, probly only very tight corner using it or losing out on angle. But alternative is increasing the power but when your drift is at end and the power gets weak because too much road/ tyre friction, a press on the clutch will bring the rpm back on top like a re-engagement.
MIRACULOUS!!!!
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